Moisturizer 101: Decoding Lotion Ingredients

It's easy to be skeptical when confronted with the claims of those who make skin-care products. Amid the cacophony of marketing claims, it's hard to know which products might actually work. The good news is that when it comes to moisturizers, most of them do work. But everyone's skin is different, so the moisturizer that works well for one person might cause skin irritation or breakouts in another person. Some moisturizers also work better in different climates. For example, lotions with hyaluronic acid help people in humid areas stay dewy but should not be used in deserts or very dry locations. Knowing which lotion to pick requires understanding some basic ingredients that go into making moisturizers.

The Core Three

There are three major types of moisturizers: emollients, humectants, and occlusives. Emollients help repair damaged skin barriers. This damage usually occurs when people have been washing or treating their faces with harsh chemicals. Check the ingredient list on a bottle of lotion for things like shea butter, colloidal oatmeal, lipids, and isopropyl palmitate. Older skin, skin suffering from eczema, or any skin that's been damaged typically does well with emollient moisturizers. Humectants include ingredients like hyaluronic acid, sugar alcohols, and ceramides. These ingredients pull moisture from the air, which is why they don't work well for people in dry climates. Occulsives form a physical barrier over the skin to prevent moisture loss. Some people layer an occlusive over either an emollient or humectant for maximum moisture and protection. Lanolin, white petroleum, and oils are all common ingredients in occlusives.

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Solvents

Solvents in skin care work to dissolve other ingredients in the product. Common solvents include oils, silicones, alcohol, and water. Which solvent is used often depends on the active ingredient in the moisturizer. Some active ingredients, like hyaluronic acid, are water-soluble. Other ingredients might be oil-soluble. However, some active ingredients aren't soluble in either, and an active ingredient has to be dissolved in order for the skin to absorb it. Usually, these ingredients are soluble in some sort of alcohol.

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Emulsifiers

Some lotions have both oil and water-based ingredients. Left alone, those ingredients would separate from each other. Emulsifiers stabilize the product and make it possible for a lotion to maintain its texture and keep all of the different ingredients mixed together. Glycerin is commonly used as an emulsifier in moisturizers.

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Antioxidants

Antioxidants are important in skin care because they counteract free radicals. Free radicals are highly reactive and unstable molecules that damage cells by stealing electrons. Antioxidants stabilize free radicals by either donating electrons or neutralizing them before the free radicals can attack skin cells. Aging skin naturally makes fewer antioxidants, which sets off oxidative stress, which can trigger eczema, lead to hyperpigmentation, and result in rapid aging of the skin. Antioxidants in lotions help prevent this process. Common antioxidants in moisturizers include vitamins A, C, and E.

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Preservatives

Preservatives help prolong the shelf life of a moisturizer and also help make sure that fungi or bacteria don't take up residence. A jar of moisturizer is a moist, dark environment, just the sort of place where bacteria and other contaminants love to live. Preservatives help fight these off and keep the moisturizer safe to use for longer. Methylparaben, propylparaben, and butylparaben, which are all parabens, are commonly used in facial products because they are highly efficient at combating fungal and bacterial contamination.

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Fragrances

Fragrances are polarizing ingredients in skin care. Some people really enjoy scented products, while other people either can't stand the smell or find that their skin is irritated by the scented ingredients. People who enjoy the scents and don't see any breakouts or irritation when they use scented products should choose what they enjoy. Those who find fragrances irritating should choose a jar labeled "fragrance free" so that their skin can be happy and healthy.

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